Carhuaz : Virgen de las Mercedes, Photos : Peru

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In Carhuaz, a peaceful town 30 minutes North of Huaraz, you can buy raspadillas: slurpies made of ice that has been taken down from the high altitude ice capping the Cordillera Blanca. Your icecream will be rasped from a large chunk of ice after which taste is added by syrup in different colors.

Late september the Plaza de Armas of Carhuaz attracts people in droves, like the suger on the cap of the syrup bottles attracts bees. That is when the processions in honor of the Virgen de las Mercedes take place. The festival is taken very seriously by the Carhuacinos and lasts for more than a week.

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Locally famous Italian explorer Antonio Raymondi arrived in Carhuaz on the 23rd of September, the first day of the festival, and returned a week later from nearby Caraz (not to be confused with Carhuaz) to still find the population celebrating and drinking. That is why he gave the old town the nickname Carhuaz Borachera, the drunk town Carhuaz.
Raymondi probably returned with a delegation from Caraz,at that time the biggest town in the Callejon de Huaylas valley, for a traditional ritual between the two towns. On the OCTAVA, the eighth day of the festival on the 1st of october, the Virgin is carried by people from Caraz only.

Legend tells how the origin of the custom stems from 1745 when the Spanish king Felipe V donated a box with the Virgen to his colony. It was then supposed to be transported to Caraz, at that time named San Ildefonso de Huaylas. On the way the large party which transported the Virgen stayed one night in Carhuaz. When they wanted to continue their journey the next morning it turned out that the virgin had become to heavy to carry no matter how many people helped. It was seen as a miracle and a sign that the Virgen de las Mercedes should stay in Carhuaz. Acknowledging however that the Virgen actually belongs to Caraz, caracinos are invited every year to carry the Virgen on the first of october.

It is well worth staying a night in Carhuaz. There are some excellent hotels and restaurants. Note that besides the festival days Carhuaz goes to sleep early, unlike Huaraz.

The Plaza de Armas has some impressive palm trees, the highest in the valley. Although the ancient town, which officially obtained the title 'ciudad' in1868, was badly damaged by the 1970 earthquake, many more old buildings survived in the city center than in Huaraz. It thereby remained it's colonial feel. You will notice how the temperature is higher than in Huaraz due to a much lower altitude (2600 m). Pleasant to stroll around in the spring like evenings.

The name "Carhuaz" is derived from the Quechua word for yellow. The reason is the abundance of the yellow retama flower, which can be a spectacular sight when you walk through the nearby countryside. Also look for the pomelo trees, and the traditional Carhuacino Coctel de Pomelo liquor.

It is said that Hernando Pizarro was very well received by the inhabitants of Carhuaz when he passed through the Callejon de Huaylas on his way from Cajamarca to Pachacamac in 1533. You too are likely to get a warm welcome in Carhuaz.

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